On August 5, 2020, the German professional climber Alexander Megos managed the first ascent of the Bibliography route in Céüse. In that film he attempted a route called Bibliographie, a route Megos pegged as 5.15d (9c)—nigh impossible. Watch the new video of the send below. Film: Alex Megos climbs bibliography (9c). Last year we shared the Patagonia climbing film, Rotpunkt, featuring Alex Megos’ unusually dedicated life of climbing. In 2016, he released the Alex Megos Formula, a four-part video series that delves into his secrets of success. Tenaya athlete Alex Megos makes the first ascent of Bibliographie (9c/5.15d), Céüse, France. With Adam Ondra’s incredible ascent of Silence, the world’s first 5.15d or 9c, still fresh in the news, speculation has already started as to when another climber will achieve this level. Do you like our climbing magazine? So I knew I could climb the route. How? Alex puts this very concrete announcement into perspective. A completely new experience for Alex. Prior to this ascent, he completed the first ascent of Perfecto Mundo (5.15c) in 2018. Naturally you benefit multiple times. You will find out here.. Post was not sent - check e-mail address! Alex Megos is an obvious candidate. Your blog can not share any posts via email. The Czech climber Adam Ondra advanced to magical grade 9c for the first time in 2017. The route runs beside Biographie— the world’s first consensus 9a+ (5.15a), established by Chris Sharma 2001—in Céüse, France, and is 35 meters (115 feet). Hier, dans la soirée, Alex Megos s'est rendu à la pizzeria "Le Crux" de Céüse pour acheter à manger et pour fêter une croix historique qui pourrait peut-être prétendre au titre de voie la plus dure du monde : "Bibliographie". I was finally able to climb over the key point from the start. There is plenty of news out there already (as well as some great stories on Alex… He was the first climber to on-sight (climb without prior practice or advice) a route graded 9a (5.14d). The second catalyst for the ascent was the moment when Alex was able to climb the bouldering section of the route from below. Plus tôt dans la journée, nous vous annoncions que Alex Megos avait réalisé son projet : « Bibliographie », un potentiel 9c à Céüse.Ce soir, aux alentours de 21h, Alex a publié sur Instagram un post expliquant son run et confirmant la cotation 9c : After 60 days of effort this is now the most difficult … If I were to hazard a guess – and of course this is just based on experience and access to a nice big database of numbers – then I predict the following: 1. Two aspects were of central importance for the on-site visit. Este artículo es el resultado de una traducción automática. It is only the second 9c … ... in Margalef, Spain, and his 2020 ascent of Bibliographie (9c, 5.15d) in Céüse, France. Whether I was too optimistic. On August 5th Alex Megos climbed "Bibliographie" and given the climb a grade of 9c / 5.15d. Alex Megos is one of the most accomplished sport climbers of all time. Alex Megos klettert zweite 9c der Welt in Ceuse, Frankreich. Suddenly had Alex Megos Time - a lot of time. Just a single step up in str… For more, see Niall Grimes Jam Crack Climbing Podcast. En caso de dudas, por favor consulte la versión original en Alemán. Alex can climb 9c (or more) if he is to improve aerobic efficiency, gain movement economy or improve route tactics like unusual rest positions, speed or greater flexibility for specialist moves. In 2017, Megos first tried the route that would become his three-year project. The German professional climber Alexander Megos successfully climbs the route Bibliographie in Céüse. 06/08/2020 Il essayait cette ligne du secteur Biographie en fil rouge chaque été depuis plusieurs années, Alex Megos a libéré son super-projet à Céüse hier avec la première ascension de “Bibliographie” ! Er nannte sie „Bibliographie“ und schlägt dafür den Grad 9c vor. Gedenk dessen, dass er in seiner bisherigen Toproute „Perfecto Mundo“ 16 Tage zu brachte und jetzt immerhin 60 Tage, über einige Jahre verteilt benötigte, ist es wohl gerechtfertigt. In 2013, he completed the first-ever onsight of a 9a [5.14d] route with Estado Critico. In den letzten Jahren investierte Alexander Megos rund zwei Monate in diese Route, die im französischen Sportkletter-Mekka Céüse . This article has been translated automatically. Puede contener errores e informaciones falsas. Yesterday evening, August 05, 2020, the German successfully climbed the route and suggested 9c as the difficulty. It is clear that a route feels more difficult when doing a first ascent, because for a long time you do not even know whether you can climb the route at all, whether you are completely wrong with your beta - to name just a few factors. Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. Photo: Ken Etzel. En caso de dudas, por favor consulte la versión original en Alemán. Projecting a single route over such a long period of time, apart from the physical challenge, is a mental roller coaster. Is Adam Ondra's Route Silence even 9c + or 10a? The Route Silence was the first 9c route in the world and remained so for the following three years. This is now the most difficult sport climb in France and only the second in the world this difficult. Because he usually makes short work of difficult routes. The route runs beside Biographie—the worlds’s first consensus 9a+ (5.15a), established by Chris Sharma 2001—in Céüse, France, and is 35 meters (115 feet). He also invested countless days and trips to the Norwegian sport climbing area Flatanger until he was able to successfully climb his project red dot. And this rig took him 60, so he rated it 9c. Last week, Alex Megos made climbing history by completing the first ascent of Bibliographie (9c, 5.15d). Jakob Schubert: First climbed 8c boulder La Force Tranquille Direct, Prize draw: Sea to Summit sleeping bag system to be won, Jakob Schubert injured: acute complaints since the 9c attempt. The film by its sponsor Patagonia tells the story behind the first ascent. Alex Megos never met a route he couldn’t climb in short order, that was until he encountered Bibliographie, a project at Céüse. 315.1k Followers, 99 Following, 834 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) Es wäre nach „Silence“ von Adam Ondra die zweite Route in diesem Grad. Yesterday…” Letztmals derart in Erstaunen versetzt hatte Megos die Kletterwelt 2013, als es ihm als erstem Kletterer überhaupt gelungen war, eine 9a Route onsight zu klettern. Niall Grimes Zoom chats with Alex Megos about his latest 9c, Bibliography at Ceuse. Climbing confirmed as an Olympic discipline in 2024, Alex Rohr in an interview about the first ascent of The Back of Beyond (9a). It is only the second 9c in the world. in the first ascent of Bibliography (9c). Adam will struggle to climb harder than 9c without addressing basic levels of strength and power as he’s already such an efficient climber. Alexander Megos: First ascent of the 9c route Bibliographie in Céüse. E l mundo de la escalada aguanta la respiración ante la última proeza de This article has been translated automatically. Alex Megos enchaîne un potentiel 9c à Céüse ! Germany vs. Great Britain - Where was the first 9a climbed in the world? – Alex Megos frees Bibliographie 9b+ or 9c in Céüse! In 2017, Megos won silver in both the Bouldering European Championships, in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia. Climber Alex Megos takes on his most difficult ascent yet and leaves a lot of skin on the rock. It was originally bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009. Friday, 4 September Jakob Schubert, the best male competition climber the last ten years who did his first 9b+ last year, reported on Insta that he had tried Alex Megos Bibliographie 9c in Céüse. On the 5 th of August, Alex Megos climbed his long-term Ceuse project, Bibliographie, with ‘one last go’ on the last day of his trip. I know there are many speculations about the grade and I think grades are very subjective. When Alex Megos clipped the chains of Bibliographie on August 5th, he finished an uncharacteristically-long journey, which he wasn’t sure he’d ever complete. Naturally you benefit multiple times. Initially the news was rumored and the grade unconfirmed apart from other's comments. He has climbed numerous routes in the ninth degree, including lines like Biography (9a +), Fight Club (9b) or Perfecto Mundo (9b +). Invested 60 climbing days spread over several years Alexander Megos. Alex Megos never met a route he couldn’t climb in short order…that was until he encountered Bibliographie, an undone sport line at the French super-crag, Céüse. Photo: Ken Etzel. My personal suggestion for the grade is 9c. Megos has also climbed V15 in 30 minutes, which generally means, with the right motivation and time, he could very likely climb V16. Quelle: Alex Megos/Instagram Pic: Ken Etzel Hier der Originalpost von Alex auf Instagram: Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn’t mean you don’t have a chance. The German professional climber Alexander Megos successfully climbs the route Bibliographie in Céüse. On the path to the send he encountered doubts … Megos needed 16 days for Perfecto Mundo, so a 9c (5.15d) should take about 32 days. 26-year-old German climber Alex Megos making the first ascent of Bibliographie at Céüse, the second 9c in the world, in August 2020 Photo by Ken Etzel Alexander Megos climbing Bibliographie 9c at Céüse in France. On August 5, 2020, the German professional climber Alexander Megos managed the first ascent of the Bibliography route in Céüse. The film by its sponsor Patagonia tells the story behind the first ascent. Alex Rohr in an interview about the first ascent of The Back of Beyond (9a). It might contain mistakes or wrong information. Mega Alex"), Sean McColl ("Must feel good"), Roger Schäli, Kilian Jornet oder Jan Hojer sowie Alexander Huber ("Mega Megos") gratulieren überschwänglich via Social-Media. Alex compares his most recent ascent with the latter. Do you like our climbing magazine? Este artículo es el resultado de una traducción automática. Film with Adam Ondra on the celebration of the world's first 9c, Interview: Bernd Zangerl opens Trad-Route Grenzenlos in the Valle Dell'Orco. That was definitely a key event. 2. Alexander Megos frees Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c 06.08.2020 di Planetmountain At Céüse in France the German climber Alex Megos has made the first ascent of Bibliographie and suggested the grade 9c. He is the only climber besides Adam Ondra to complete a 5.15c first ascent. On August 5th, after years of projecting, Alex Megos put down the first ascent of Bibliographie, which he has graded 9c (5.15d). Dimitri Vogt climbs difficult turning route Zahir rotpunkt, Bouldering on the Furka Pass and Nufenen Pass: Topos now in the Swiss Bloc 1 guide, Brushpoint: Alex Megos invents a new climbing style. [Also Read Interview: Alex Megos On Bibliographie] In 2017, Megos first tried the route that would become his three-year project. In 2018 he won bronze at the IFSC Lead World Cup in Chamonix and one week later won Gold in the Briancon World Cup. On the one hand, the world was under the spell of the corona pandemic, all competitions were canceled and the Summer Olympics postponed for a year. It was he who joined in 2013 Estado Critico was the first in the history of climbing to be able to flash a 9a route. In episode # 2 of the BETA show, we look into the question of who will climb 9c next and which 9c route will be repeated first. On August 5th, after years of projecting, Alex Megos put down the first ascent of Bibliographie, which he’s graded 9c (5.15d). It is the second route of the grade ever, after Adam Ondra's Silence. On the 5th of August 2020, Alex sent “Bibliographie” 9c (5.15d / FA). When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It just happens that there aren't tons of V16's for him to choose from. Perfecto Mundo has taken me 16 days of effort, Bibliographie with around 60 days and more specific training felt a lot harder. You will find out here.. Post was not sent - check e-mail address! The line, located just right of Biographie in Céüse, France, was bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009 and follows 35-meters of overhung limestone. Again and again there were doubts whether the route could be climbed at all. 47.1k Likes, 1,041 Comments - Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) on Instagram: “Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn't mean you don't have a chance. After taking approximately 60 climbing days Alex suggested a grade of 9c (5.15d). It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. 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